#81 - The Tastes of Osaka

Osaka (大阪) is the third largest city in Japan, although it is considered the second most important. It lies on the Kansai region, which is near the middle area of the main island, and it has a population of 2.5 million people. It became the capital city of Japan for short periods of time, under the name of Naniwa (浪速).

Osaka is famous for its food and local dishes. There are two which you should definately try if you visit the city.

Okonomiyaki

(Slightly burnt) do-it-yourself okonomiyaki.

The first is Okonomiyaki (お好み焼き). Perhaps the best way to describe it is a savoury pancake made with a variety of ingredients. The name okonomiyaki literally means "what you want" and "grilled" or "cooked", so it's safe to say that there are many different ingredients. Generally, the batter is made primarily with shredded cabbage, flour, water and eggs.

Now covered in sauce!

It is cooked on a hot-plate called a teppan (鉄板) and often garnished with sauce. A metal spatula is then used to cut and eat it.

A lot of restaurants in Osaka are 'grill it yourself', if you want to make okonomiyaki to your own taste! My favourite is meat - usually pork - or a mixed meat and seafood style!

Takoyaki

The second food is called takoyaki (たこ焼き). The name describes it well: tako means octopus, and yaki means "grill" or "fry". Essentially, it is pieces of octopus in a ball of flour-based batter. You can often grab some takoyaki as street food. You would usually get about 6 balls per average portion. Once again, in some restaurants you can grill it yourself.

The balls are cooked in a takoyaki pan. This is a square shaped, metal pan, typically made of cast iron, which has half-spherical moulds. The cast iron allows the takoyaki to heat evenly. During cooking, you have to turn them over with a small pick so that you get the rounded ball. I couldn't do this and failed epically!

#80 - Sightseeing in Sendai: Loople and Zuihoden

Sendai is the largest city in the Tohoku Region in Japan with around one million inhabitants. There are several good tourist and cultural spots in Sendai, but they are sometimes a little too far apart to travel to if you have limited time in the city. What could you do?

Loople Sendai Bus

The Loople is a bus service in Sendai. As the name suggests, it travels in a one-way loop across the city, and stops at several useful locations for sightseeing. Stops include Sendai City Museum, Aoba (Sendai) Castle, Osaki Hachimangu Shrine, and the Miyagi Museum of Art, as well as other.

It leaves from Sendai Station, which is a convenient hub for the bullet train, local trains, subway and other bus routes. You can identify a Loople bus easily. It has a wonderfully nostalgic design which incorporates a lot of wood in the design, and it looks very different to other services. The service starts at 9:00 and the last is 16:00, which seems early, but as this is intended as a city touring bus, you should bear in mind that most attractions or tourist spots will be closed around the same time. Buses leave every 20-30 minutes, depending on the season. 

Perhaps the best way to use the Loople is to buy the 1-day pass. This will let you get on and off the Loople any time you want during the day. It costs 620yen for the 1-day pass (single fare is 260yen) so if you stop to visit 2 places, you have already saved money! Even better, the 1-day pass allows a discount at some tourist attractions! 

Zuihoden

One of Sendai's most visited attractions is the Zuihoden Mausoleum (瑞鳳殿). This mausoleum was built in 1637 for Date Masamune, one of the most powerful feudal lords from the Edo Period, who died the previous year. Zuihoden was designed in the style of the Momoyama Period, which features intricate woodwork with bright and vivid colours.  

Zuihoden - the mausoleum of Date Masamune.

Steps up to Zuihoden.

During the Second World War, the mausoleum was destroyed by bombing, but it was reconstructed in 1979 to be an exact replica.

Kansenden and Zennoden.

 On the grounds, you can also find the mausoleums of other members of the Date clan: Kansenden (感仙殿), built for Date Tadamune, and Zennoden (善応殿), built for Date Tsunamune. There are also the graves and tombs of other descendants. There is a small museum exhibiting items which were excavated from the site.

#79 - the JLPT

The JLPT stands for the Japanese Language Proficiency Test, known in Japanese as 日本語能力試験 (Nihongo Nouryoku Shiken). This is a standardised test which is aimed at non-native speakers which covers three main areas: language knowledge, reading ability and listening ability.

The JLPT was first held in 1984 and is now held in over 40 countries. In Japan and some countries it is held twice a year in July and December. In others it is only held once a year.

Many of those studying the Japanese language would have heard of this test. Anyone can take it, as long as they apply for it (usually online). There is a small test fee of around 5000yen (in Japan). It was necessary for foreign students to pass a certain level if they wanted to attend university in Japan. Of course, there are other reasons for taking it. Usually, Japanese companies ask that foreign applicants have a certain level of the JLPT. And of course, some people take it for themselves as a test of their language learning. However, a large portion of the time, the JLPT is only really useful within Japan, or at some Japanese companies overseas. It is not so well known to companies outside of Japan. 

Levels

There are different levels to the test, and the structure of each test is also different. There are five levels: N1 is the highest level, and N5 is the lowest. 

• N5: The ability to understand some basic Japanese, such as being able to read hiragana, katakana and only basic kanji, or listen to short, slow-spoken conversations on everyday topics.

• N4: The ability to understand basic Japanese. This has a little more kanji, and you should be able to follow conversations on everyday topics.

• N3: The ability to understand Japanese used in everyday situations to a certain degree. Of course, there is more kanji to know, as well as more complex grammar. You should be able to understand information like newspaper headlines, as well as follow conversations at near-natural speed.

• N2: The ability to understand Japanese used in everyday situations, and in a variety of circumstances. for example, reading newspaper and magazine articles, simple critiques on general topics, listening to natural speech on everyday topics and understanding the relationships of the people involved. More kanji.

• N1: The ability to understand Japanese used in a variety of circumstances. This includes more complex writings on different topics, and understand spoken new reports and lectures in different settings. EVEN  MORE KANJI!

As you can probably guess, the N1 level is the most requested by companies and universities, but N2 is also valuable. N3 is a new level that was added in 2010, when the whole system was changed, so for the time being, it is hard to say what degree of relevance it will have on non-native speakers living or working in Japan. Nevertheless, I still believe it is useful to achieve.

When I was in Japan, I took the N3 level. Luckily I passed! It was by one mark but still, a pass is a pass! I aim to continue studying and taking more tests in the future. There were a lot of people taking N3 level, so it should bode well for this level's success in the future. 

The July JLPT test was taken on 6th July in Japan. So I want to wish my friends and everyone that took it good luck for their results!

#78 - My Japanese Apartment

When people found out I was moving to Japan, most would ask me about where I was going to live. Some thought it would be like a capsule hotel, with just a bed and little other space. Some thought it would have great views of an urban metropolis, connected by technology and internet everywhere. Neither of these are strictly true.

Luckily for me, my company provided me with an apartment. I was moving to Sendai. This is an area which is fresh in the mind of many Japanese people, because this was one of the worst areas where the 2011 Tohoku Earthquake and tsunami hit. So, like most buildings after a big earthquake, the apartment I was supposed to take over was not to the best standards, I was told. Instead, I was placed in a different apartment in an area I really liked to live in. It wasn't in the city centre, it was more towards the outskirts of the main city. Yet, it wasn't really what I would call "suburban". Nevertheless, it had some green, was 5 minutes walk to the subway station, and had quite a few places to buy essentials (including a convenience store opposite the building!). There was also a Tsutaya nearby, so I could rent DVDs to watch. I often had DVD nights with some friends in the area. So I was very happy with the location!

Overview

My apartment building had 4 storeys. The apartment itself was on the third storey. There were stairs of course, but also an elevator. Apparently, according to Japanese law, all 'new' apartment buildings with 4 or more floors are required to have an elevator. It made getting my suitcases up easier, at least! It also had a small balcony, which I really enjoyed. I didn't spend much time outside on it at all, but I liked the idea of a private outside space, and also it was where I had to hang washing to dry! Also, it meant that I had nice, large doors which could let in a lot of light, and I could open in summer to let air come in.

In real estate in Japan, sizes of rooms are usually measured by how many tatami mats it would fit. This is also known as jo. The size of the apartment was 8 tatami mats. That works out at about 12.24 metres squared. This makes it a fairly average size in Japan.  

Because it was organised by my company, I didn't have to pay any deposit, key money or other fees. I was only required to pay monthly rent, and for any utilities I wanted to organise. Also, there were some items supplied already, such as cups, plates, a futon, TV, microwave and so on. So, it didn't cost me loads of money to furnish the apartment. Actually, I didn't end up buying anything for the apartment!

Kitchen

Kitchen and genkan.
Picture taken when I moved in.

The kitchen was small. There was not doubt about that. You can see it all in the picture on the right. It had a decent amount of storage, a good sized sink, as well as the burners and fish grill. 

One thing you may notice is that there is no oven. As far as I was aware, ovens are not common in Japanese homes (or at least, in Japanese apartments!). Seeing as most of my cooking skills prior to moving were oven baked - things like pasta bake, meat, roast potatoes, lasagna, fish, cake - I needed to learn how to make meals with just a rice cooker, two burners and a microwave!

See the door in the background? That is the entrance hall. This area is called the genkan (玄関) and it is important in a Japanese house because you are expected to remove your shoes. Usually the genkan is recessed into the floor as it helps prevent dirt from spreading into the house itself. In my apartment there was also a getabako (下駄箱), a space to store shoes. I don't have a picture of it but it's just to the right of the door, above a washing machine.

On the opposite wall of the kitchen was the shower room/bathroom and the toilet room. Both were small, but then it was practical. 

Room

Apart from the kitchen, there was just the one bedroom/living area. It wasn't a big space, but for me it was very adequate. I didn't need anything else for living on my own. My apartment had some storage, like a chest of drawers, a couple small bookcases and an inbuilt wardrobe. It had a wooden floor, which made it easy to clean. To get an idea of the size of it, take a look below. This photo was taken on the day I moved out, so it should be easier to see the apartment itself, not my stuff!

Panorama of room the day I moved out.

My bed.
Please ignore the clothes on it.

You may be asking, where is the bed? Well, here it is!

It wasn't a western style bed, but I had a futon. Yes, this meant that I had to sleep on the floor, finding it hard to stand up in the morning, instead of sliding out of bed! The futon was provide with the sheets by my company which was great. In the picture, I have a 1.5 size futon mattress on the bottom. This is the only thing I added to this apartment, after receiving it from someone who didn't need it any more. It actually made everything a lot softer, which was great as I also sat on the futon to use my laptop on the low Japanese table (which you can see in the panorama above).

Futon-cum-sofa.

Futon are common in Japan. You can find dedicated futon stores, and large futon areas in department stores. I don't remember ever seeing bed frames on sale in any store I went in. Futons are designed so that they can be folded up easily and put away. This would create more space in the apartment. But because I used it as a sitting area too, I didn't usually put mine away. Although, there was a kind of 'sofa' cover in my apartment. You could fold the futon into it and create a seated space!

As I mentioned before, I didn't buy any additional furniture. So, I didn't have a dining table or chairs, no sofa, no extra appliances. The first reason was because I considered them kind of expensive and I didn't want to spend my money on them. In addition, because of my working hours, it would have been difficult to have these kinds of items delivered. But, I had no complaints. For me, it worked well and I actually enjoyed this apartment.

Over time, I decorated a little. I put up a map of the area on my wall, some charms, photos and other mementos. I even bought a PS3 and had my parents send my English games over! Overall, I had made this apartment into a small relaxing space that I really enjoyed living in.

One sunny day after cleaning.
It wasn't always this clean.

Decorations!

An insight into my decorations and stuff.

#77 - Odaiba

Odaiba is a large man-made island in Tokyo Bay. Today, it is a well-known leisure and entertainment zone, and hosts a number of attractions for tourists. It is also one of the only two places within the Greater Tokyo Metropolitan area where you can access the seashore and which isn't blocked by industry and harbour areas.

Interesting fact: Odaiba is currently one of the proposed venues for Japan's 2020 Summer Olympic games for events such as beach volleyball, triathlon and marathon swimming and gymnastics.

View of Tokyo Bay and the Rainbow Bridge from Odaiba.

Some history

This area was first constructed in the 1850s. Six island fortresses were built as a defense against attack by sea. The name Odaiba (お台場) comes from the Japanese word for the cannon batteries (daiba 台場) which were placed on these islands.

About a century later, massive landfills were used to connect the small islands together, making them into larger islands. The area expanded as a seaport district, but since the 1990s it has developed into a major tourist and leisure area.

Things to see

Odaiba has a lot of shopping areas and restaurants, so it is great if you want to buy a range of things and have a relaxing day out at the same time. Some of these areas are: Decks Tokyo Beach, Aquacity Odaiba, and DiverCity Plaza. As an added bonus, I found these well within walking distance, so it feels very compact and easy to navigate!

Front side of Fuji TV building.

Fuji TV Building

The headquarters of Fuji Television is based in Odaiba. The building itself has a very interesting design, which was created by Kenzo Tange (丹下健三 Tange Kenzo), who also designed the Hiroshima Peace Park.

Events outside.

It is possible for the public to go into the building. There are some exhibits on popular programs. Of course, there is also a shop where you can purchase Fuji TV goods. At the time I went, there was also a lot of events going on outside, such as stalls for prizes, games and food! I also saw some costumed characters. 

Looking up from under the building.

If you want a nice view of the Odaiba area, you can visit the second-highest storey for free. There is also an observatory deck in the ball-shaped part, but there is an admission fee for this bit. It usually costs about 500 yen. 

Ferris Wheel

Another popular attraction is the Ferris wheel. Known as Daikanransha (大観覧車) it stands at 115 metres tall (337 ft), making it one of the world's largest. 

Ferris wheel and entrance
to Pallete Town.

During the ride, you can get some great views of the area, including the Bay and Rainbow Bridge. It takes about 15 minutes to complete one revolution, so you can sit back, relax,and enjoy the sights. 

Although each cabin can seat six people, this Ferris wheel is popular among Japanese couples. In fact, Odaiba as an area is sometimes viewed as a dating place, especially amongst younger generations!

The Ferris wheel is right inside an area called Palette Town, which also has some shops, restaurants, and exhibitions, such as a Toyota showroom!

"Life-size" Mobile Suit Gundam.

One last thing, which is sure to thrill most manga and anime fans, is the giant "life-size" Gundam statue. It can be quite surprising to turn the corner and see it! This mobile suit can be found outside of the DiverCity Tokyo Plaza. Inside the plaza, there is a small shop selling Gundam related goods.

How to get there

There are many ways to get to Odaiba. It can be accessed by the Yurikamome (an elevated train with tyres), using the Rinkai Line, or by boat. You can also cross the Rainbow Bridge on foot.

#76 - Tokyo Tower

Tokyo Tower (東京タワー ) is a communications and observation tower in Tokyo. Standing at 333 metres tall, it is the second tallest structure in Japan (after this tower).Construction was completed in 1958, and Tokyo Tower remains a popular attraction for tourists to this day. I visited in the middle of July, 2013 and loved it!

History

After television broadcasting started in Japan in 1953, it was feared that a lot of transmission towers would be built across Tokyo. In order to prevent this happening and potentially overrunning the city, it was decided to construct one large tower to service the whole area. 

Looking up.

Did you know that, originally, Tokyo Tower was planned to be bigger than the Empire State Building? Unfortunately, due to a lack of resources and financing, this wouldn't be the case. 

Japanese architect Taichu Naito (内藤 多仲) was responsible for the design of Tokyo Tower. The lattice tower was based on the Eiffel Tower in Paris, France. But, when the 90 metre antenna was placed on Tokyo Tower, it overtook the Eiffel Tower to become the tallest free-standing tower in the world at that time! Like its French counterpart, Tokyo Tower came to be a symbol of its city.

Things to do

Tokyo Tower offers great bird's eye views of Tokyo. There are two observation decks: the main observatory at 150 metres, and the special observatory at 250 metres. On a clear day, you can see Mount Fuji! Unfortunately it was a little drizzly when I went, so I couldn't see it. Nevertheless, I really enjoyed looking out across Tokyo, and identifying other buildings and areas I had visited!

A view from Tokyo Tower.

At the time I visited Tokyo Tower, it was becoming late afternoon. I stayed until after the sun had set, and saw Tokyo light up! The views were great and it was a wonderful way of looking back on all the things I had done in Tokyo. 

Looking towards the Rainbow Bridge
 and Odaiba.

Looking up at night.

Tokyo at night.

Finally, underneath the tower, there is a four-storey building called FootTown. Here, there is an aquarium, reception hall, restaurants, convenience stores, and of course - elevators to climb the tower. You can also visit the Guinness World Records Museum Tokyo on the third floor. Also, on the roof of the building there is a small amusement park for children.

#75 - Ueno Zoo and Tokyo Skytree - 16 June 2013

Ueno Zoo

Ueno Zoo is the oldest zoo in Japan. Also known as 恩賜上野動物園 (Onshi Ueno Doubutsu-en), it was founded in 1882 and currently covers about 14.3 hectares of land. It lies in the Ueno Park grounds, which is a large urban park with museums and galleries and other attractions.

There are over 460 species kept in Ueno Zoo. There were animals such as penguins, kangaroos, giraffes, elephants, tigers, hippos, birds, red pandas - the list goes on! However, perhaps the most famous is the panda. Unfortunately, at the time I visited, the female panda was kept inside, as it was thought she was pregnant, and we couldn't see the male through the enclosure (or the people!). The panda has almost become a symbol of Ueno. Even around Ueno train station, you can see statues of pandas, gifts and sweets in the shape of pandas, pictures, images, and so on!

Polar bear!

Japanese bears!

View of art of Ueno Park
from the hotel room.

I spent a long time watching the polar bear. First, it was playing with a floating orange ball in the water. Then, it managed to get the top from an orange cone, and would throw it into the water and chase it like a fish! Other than the polar bear, there were other bear enclosures too. When I was at the zoo, the weather wasn't great, but I really enjoyed looking at the animals!

Tokyo Skytree

Looking up from near the base.

On the same afternoon, I also visited Tokyo Skytree for the first time. Tokyo Skytree (東京スカイツリー) is one of the newest additions to Tokyo's skyline, standing at 634 metres tall, it became the tallest tower in the world, and the second tallest structure in the world (after the Burj Khalifa in Dubai). You can see Tokyo Skytree in the distance from most areas in Tokyo, so of course it has become a popular photo object!

One of the views.

There are two observation decks, with great views across Tokyo. The Tembo Deck stand at 350 metres and spans across 3 floors. There is a souvenir shop and a restaurant, as well as a cafe and glass panels on the floor to see to the bottom (eep!). The Tembo Gallery is at 450 metres. Here, you can walk up a sloping spiral ramp, which circles the tower to give great views.  

Underneath Skytree there are is a large shopping complex and also an aquarium, so it would be easy to spend a long time there! Here you will also find Tokyo Skytree Station (which used to be called Narihirabashi Station) making it very easy to get to Skytree by train.