#83 - Mount Kōya

South of Osaka lies Wakayama Prefecture, and there in an 800 metre high valley in the mountains lies the centre of Shingon Buddhism. The founder of this sect is one of Japan's most significant religious figures. Kukai (空海), also known as Kobo-Daishi after his death (弘法大師, The Grand Master Who Propogated the Buddhist Teaching) settled in Mount Koya in 819, and began to develop a monastery. Legend has it that, while studying in China, he threw his sankosho (a tool used in Buddhist ceremonies) towards Japan. Later, he found the tool stuck the branches of a pine tree on Mount Koya, and that's why he started to build his monastery there. The pine tree is still growing in the complex!

Today, the monastery has developed into the town of Koya (高野).  For visitors, there are about 120 temples and shrines to visit, as well as memorials and other structures. There is plenty to keep you busy for a day, but many people stay overnight. Around 50 temples offer lodging (called shukubo), so you can experience the simple, traditional lifestyle of Buddhist monks! And, Mount Koya is one of the best places to do it.

Okunoin 奥の院

The bridge towards Kobo-Daishi's mausoleum. 

Surrounded in forest trees, Okunoin is the site of Kobo-Daishi's mausoleum. It is believed that he didn't actually die, but instead he rests in eternal meditation awaiting the Buddha of the Future. Many people come to this site to pray at this popular pilgrimage spot. You can feel that it is a sacred site. There is a small bridge to cross, and you should bow to pay respects to Kobo-Daishi before crossing. Photography, food and drink are all forbidden past this point.

Between the trees.

Many people, such as prominent monks and feudal lords, wished to be close to Kobo-Daishi in death, and so they had tombstones erected here. This is Japan's largest cemetery, with over 200,000 tombstones. It is about 2 kilometres in length to walk the main path here.

Part of the pathway.

There are a lot of tall forest trees scattered throughout the area, and it makes the walk very atmospheric. You can definitely feel something spiritual here! Many guidebooks recommend walking through Okunoin at night, as it provides a very different experience than during the day. In the dark, it really feels like another world!

Kongobu-ji Temple 金剛峯寺

Kongobu-ji front.

Originally constructed in 1593 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣秀吉) in dedication of his mother, Kongobu-ji has now become the head temple of Shingon Buddhism. You can enter this building and see the rooms, including beautifully gilded sliding doors, audience rooms and kitchen.

A prominent feature of this temple is its rock garden. Called Banryutei (蟠龍庭), it is the largest rock garden in Japan (2340 square metres). The large granite stones were brought from Shikoku, the island where Kukai was born, and the arrangement is said to represent two dragons emerging from a sea of clouds to protect the temple.

The rock garden, Banryutei.

Pilgrimage Trails

Daimon Gate. 

Due to the vast number of temples and its historical and religious importance, there are a number of popular pilgrimage trails which connect Mount Koya to the outside world. Many people now use the cable car, but you could also hike the trails across the mountains using a more traditional approach. It is also the start and end point of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage.

With Koya-kun, a mascot character.

Whether you want to hike to Koya, or just walk around it, there are plenty of smaller temples to see. You may even see the mascot, Koya-kun, like we did! Actually, you can sometimes find a picture of Koya-kun at some sites. Why? Standing behind him gives a good angle for photographs!

Candle Festival: ろうそく祭り

A path with candles.

I went to Mount Koya during Obon, a Buddhist event for commemorating your ancestors. Traditionally, lanterns are hung in front of houses, graves are visited and Obon dances are performed! It is a very important event for most people in Japan.

At Mount Koya, they hold a candle festival. The paths in Okunoin are lined with polystyrene and foil. This is so you can place lit candles into them. These run all along the entire trail of the forest, which is quite impressive! You can buy candles from stalls, so we didn't need to have our own luckily! 

Me lighting and placing a candle.

Walking through the forest and cemetery along a path of light was a very interesting experience. Hundreds of people were there to enjoy the festival. There was something spooky and spiritual about the event. 

At one part, there were some unlit steps. As we passed, a small girl in a white kimono silently appeared from the darkness. A Japanese woman saw this and almost screamed from fright and it looked like she was about to have a heart attack! Little girls in white dresses are an image of a ghost in some folklore, so that's why it freaked her out so much! 

Overall Impressions

I really enjoyed visiting Mount Koya. It was a place with a lot of nature, and it is really relaxing to walk around the small town and visit the temples and buildings. It was by total accident that the Candle Festival was happening. I didn't know about it before going! However, I will always remember that experience as unique. I would love to visit Mount Koya again, perhaps to stay overnight at temple lodgings! I didn't have a chance to do it before, because I only went there for one day. Perhaps in the future!